When Rosemary, a lovely beekeeper at our apiary, gave me a book about the true story of a man who discovers the wonders of bees and honey on a farm in Italy, I packed it in my flight bag for a trip to Rome. I should have sub-titled this post: ‘A beekeeper in Rome’, because it is the story of my Roman holiday and the book that accompanied my travels.
Honey and Dust: Travels in search of sweetness by Piers Moore Ede begins as Piers, a young British environmentalist writer, is seriously injured in a hit-and-run accident in San Francisco and loses sense of his life’s purpose. He goes to recuperate on a farm owned by a beekeeper in Italy and rediscovers his passion for life with the help of Gunther and his bees.
One sunny afternoon, Piers and Gunther take a walk, through a copse of trees, to a thicket of rosemary bushes, to where Gunther keeps his beehives. The gentle Italian bees are busy foraging nectar from the heavy-scented rosemary, ‘Rosmarino. Strong honey’. Gunther cuts a wedge of honeycomb from one of the hives to share with Piers:
‘That was my first taste of honey straight from a hive. We stood there in the clearing, with the afternoon sun warm upon our faces, honey running down our fingers, and let the sweetness wash over our tongues. The honey, indeed, had a strong taste of rosemary, and to see the spiny green bushes right beside us, and then to taste the result here and now, was by no means any great scientific discovery, but it felt strangely wonderful – like an insight into the order of things.’
It is a magical moment for the reader too, and I knew then that I would love this book. By the time our plane landed in Rome, I had joined Piers in the Middle East as he began his quest to find and taste the world’s most wondrous honeys.
A beekeeper in Rome
Rome is an amazing city. The ancient world sits comfortably with the modern world. It has style and glamour alongside history and tradition. The coffee is amazing too.
Sitting with my friends in a cafe overlooking the Colleseum, I reflected how my journey was similar to Piers: exploring a vibrant and beautiful world which in parts has vanished.
A disappearing world
Honey flowed like rivers in ancient times. The Romans were Master Beekeepers with a particular fondness for thyme honey. Virgil and Pliny expounded the health-giving virtues of this golden nectar, and wrote detailed descriptions of beekeeping and the qualities of bees. However, Virgil thought queen bees were kings and warned of finding king cells in hives. The art of beekeeping declined in Ancient Rome with the fall of the Roman Empire.
Piers’ first stop on his tour of the world of apiculture is Beirut, but sadly he encounters varroa early in his journey. Wadih Yazbek, the son of a famous Lebanese beekeeper, explains that the honey-gathering traditions of the mountains was a practice of happier times:
‘It is not just us, the people, who have suffered in this last century. The land itself has taken many savage blows. And the wild bees, in consequence, have grown quiet. Of course, we beekeepers make sure that the bees survive – but in the wild, in caves and trees, they no longer make their homes as they used to. The varroa mite has hit us badly here.’
Piers’ realisation that the honeybees of the wild and domesticated hives are disappearing as colony after colony is ravaged by varroa makes his quest to find honey even sweeter. I finished reading the chapters in the Middle East as our first day in Rome came to an end, sitting in the beautiful gardens of Villa Borghese and enjoying very good Italian ice cream.
Vatican – the city of angels and demons
The next day we visited the Vatican – a city in a city – and I heard rumour that the pope keeps his own hives. While I didn’t see a bee, the Vatican experience can only be described as pure sensory overload. You need a guide, and a day, to see the Vatican.
Once inside, I used an entire 8GB memory card on my SLR and it was worth every shot. The highlight was Michaelangelo’s breathtaking Sistine Chapel, which is – indescribable. However, filming is forbidden inside the Sistine Chapel to protect the incandescent artwork, and because the Vatican owns the copyright. I wonder what Michaelangelo would have thought of that?
Afterwards, we sat quietly inside a family-run restaurant and digested all that we had seen and heard. As a storm threatened to break the sunshine, we were invited to stay past closing time to share a complementary bowl of cherries and limoncello.
I took a peek inside my book to see what Piers was doing in Nepal. What struck me as I read Honey and Dust was the easy connections that Piers made with everyone he met. Whether visiting noisy war-torn capitals or the rooftop of the world, people warm to the young writer and invite him into their homes to share a unique insight into their hidden lives.
That evening we climbed the turrets of Castel Sant’Angelo, went for tapas and enjoyed drinks in a restaurant opposite the Pantheon. I went to bed exhausted, and not sure if I was excited to wake for Rome or Piers’ trek with Nepalese honey hunters through dense forests.
Falling in love with Rome
On Sunday morning we stumbled across mass at the Pantheon on our way to the Fountain de Trevi. The Pantheon is one of the best preserved buildings of Ancient Rome. The rotunda uses an intricate honeycombed structure of hidden chambers to strengthen its walls.
I stood at the entrance of the Pantheon watching as thousands of rose petals were poured through the oculi of the dome and tumbled down the shafts of sunlight.
After tossing a coin in the waters of the Fountain de Trevi to make a wish, we separated to take our own mini adventures before meeting for lunch at the Campo de’ Fiori, or the Square of Flowers.
I arrived before my friends and sat in the shade enjoying Sicilian lemonade with a spot of people-watching and reading.
Piers was doing some people-watching of his own, sitting with laughing Nepalese children as intrepid honey hunters scaled a mountainside. The passage was the most absorbing in the book. It was incredible to imagine that this is how beekeepers in faraway parts of the world collect honey. Piers’ own life and brush with death is brought into perspective:
‘At times I could barely watch. The margin for error was simply too small. Every man here had his life in the balance, and yet the seeming levity with which they worked made it seem as if they didn’t care. It brought my own small encounter with mortality into the sharpest focus. Did these men fear death so little because of its constant proximity in their lives? And why do we, in the developed world, fear death so much? It also highlighted, as clearly as anything could, just how far man will go for the sensation of sweetness on his tongue. Quite simply, they were prepared to risk their lives for it.’
Once collected, wild Nepalese honey presents a further risk from the deadly rhododendron flowers that the bees forage in spring. Piers waits for the honey hunters to taste-test their hard-won nectar before sipping the ‘wondrous toxic honey’ with traces of poisonous pollen. He soon feels the effects:
‘It resembled drunkenness at first, but then became visual, like a magic mushroom trip I remembered from university. Painted dots were dripping across my irises like technicolor rain. My body felt light and tingly, filled with warm rushes and heat-bursts. It was wild and strangely wonderful.’
The relentless afternoon heat in Rome made my friends and me feel a little dazed, so we took Sunday afternoon at a slower pace and wandered past the Spanish Steps. As a Londoner I appreciated a city that was bustling but also relaxed. Italians seem to take life at their own pace and there is always time for coffee and cake.
Return to the dust world
I finished reading Honey and Dust before our flight back to London, following Piers’ spiritual journey through Sri Lanka and India. In-flight entertainment was offered by re-reading the passages that describe the secret life inside the hive:
‘It all starts with nectar,* a sweet, sticky substance produced by flowers, and loved, above all, by bees. Probing inside the flower, the bee sucks up this sugary substance and stores it in a ‘honey sac’ – essentially a second stomach. Flitting from flower to flower until the honey sac is full, the bee then returns to the hive… One jar of honey is also the result of about 80,000 trips between flower and hive, the result of about 55,000 miles of flight, and the nectar from around 2 million flowers.’
Back home in London, I missed Rome but I was left with wonderful memories and Honey and Dust would forever be indelibly entwined with my trip.
As a beekeeper, I found Nepal to be the real beating heart of the book, which brought to life the ancient practices of our craft carefully preserved by forest tribes who are themselves fading from the roar of encroaching civilisation.
Honey and Dust is an enchanting read that I highly recommend to beekeepers and to anyone who is interested bees and honey, but with a word of warning that once tasted you will become addicted to the sweet world of the bee.
A final word on Rome – you will love it.
Honey and Dust: Travels in search of sweetness
Piers Moore Ede
Published by Bloomsbury, London: 2006
Thank you, Alex. Have you been to Rome? You may enjoy the book too, it’s a really fascinating look at lives and cultures – the good and the bad.
I have yet to visit Rome. I shall visit Rome one day. I shall also find the book.
I will be interested to know what you think 🙂
what a wonderful post!! Awww I miss Italy, its beautiful surroundings and delicious coffee, the best pizzas in the world and the sunshine! 🙂 Such a treat to read it with a cup of coffee 🙂
Thanks, Kristina! Have you travelled in Italy – where did you go? It is such a beautiful country, beautiful people, beautiful food 🙂 I hope you enjoyed it with Italian coffee, the best blend 🙂
I lived in Italy for 4 months and then a year later came back for a few days to stay with my friend during Christmas:) I was lucky to have my work placement in South Italy while at Uni 😀 It’s one of those warm memories I cherish 🙂 We travelled from South Italy up North and I absolutely loved the country 🙂 I want to go back there just not sure if I can speak Italian any more, probably not 🙂 you are right, the country, the people, the food, coffee!!!! It’s all beautiful 🙂 Your pictures made me remember the great time I had there 🙂
That is amazing! You must have wonderful memories of seeing beautiful countryside and meeting interesting people. The Italians are so friendly 🙂 Would enjoy reading a post about your travels 🙂 In my next life, I hope I am Italian! 🙂
I found Italians friendlier in South then up North so I hope you will be an Italian living in beautiful South Italy 🙂
Beautiful, wonderful! Thank you for sharing.
Thank you, Sara 🙂 It’s a pleasure to share wonderful memories of Rome. Have you been to Italy?
Sadly no. Although I’ve been to Europe several times, I’ve never been to Italy! I am planning a trip though, renting a car and driving from Spain to Turkey. Can. Not. Wait.
That sounds so amazing! I look forward to the blog of your travels 🙂 Hope you pass by Gibraltar while in Spain, the rock and rock apes are worth a visit 🙂
Thank you 🙂 Gorgeous place!
How beautiful Emma. You have surpassed yourself with these photos. Glad to have another book I can add to my bee themed collection!
Thank you, Emily. I’ll remember to bring Honey and Dust to the apiary tomorrow, you’ll love it. Rome is beautiful – have too many, a whole DVD, of photos 😉
I love this post. Thank you for sharing this story and the images are beautiful. I didn’t know that bit of history regarding beekeeping in Rome. 🙂
Thank you for visiting. The Romans took beekeeping very seriously apparently, but it is interesting now that Italian bees are so popular among UK beekeepers because they are very pretty and gentle, and make lots of honey 🙂
I felt I revisited Rome with you when I was reading the post. I’ve ordered the book!
I am so happy you have ordered the book, you will love it. When did you visit Rome? 🙂
We were there last autumn and the previous spring so I can confirm that the Trevi Fountain works.
Lovely post. Beautiful photos.
Thank you, Rome was so beautiful 🙂
Excellent post in every way… Best from Rolling Harbour
(PS Rome? Bees? I’m thinking dormice dipped in honey and poppy seeds. Maybe washed down with Limoncello…)
Cheers, RH! Limoncello washes down pretty much anything! I don’t usually drink but the Italians told me it was ‘Fanta’ 😉
Tremendous post! Thank you so much for sharing your trip and your travels in the books and your fantastic photos. All woven together so wonderfully.
Thank you for your kind words 🙂 The book was a perfect travel read, I hope you enjoy it 🙂
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Amaze! Thank you 🙂 Wish today wasn’t Monday so I could work on my blog instead! 😉
Hey I nominated you for an award 🙂 http://domesteading.wordpress.com/2012/06/25/sunshine-award/
Sara, that is so lovely! Thank you 🙂 Sorry for the late reply – studying for my first beekeeping exam over the next fortnight – but will get these posted this week 🙂
Wonderful post Emma. Loved your images and tour.
Thank you, it was an amazing trip, Italy is beautiful. Have you been to Rome? 🙂
Beautiful, absolutely beautiful! Wonderful photos, and I love how you intertwined the book with your journey. I love the photo of the police with your friend–the little boy on the right looks like he’s sticking his tongue out, lol! And the photo of the Roman soldiers is great, because you can see a tattoo on the soldier on the right’s left shoulder. I wonder if tattooed soldiers were common in ancient Roman times? 🙂
Someday I would love to go to Rome and tour Italy. In the meantime, I’ll have to settle for living vicariously through posts like yours!
I hope you get to walk through Europe next, Holly. You’ll love Rome 🙂 He he! The Roman police were so surprised when Dani asked for a photo that they didn’t have a chance to refuse. 🙂 Interesting question about tattoos, they were used originally for ancient tribal markings although not sure if centurions wore them!
These photographs are so amazing! They are so beautiful. It looks like more than good. I love it!
Thank you! That is very kind of you to say as a professional photographer! Your photos are amazing 🙂 I am still practising all the time, and get more shaky, out-of-focus pictures on my camera than good ones 😉
Emily pointed me to your review of this book, and now I want to track it down! I’ve not been to Rome yet, and would love to hear about Italian beekeeping. Thank you for the heads up.
Hi! I’m glad you enjoyed the review – Honey and Dust is a beautiful read. I hope you can take it to Rome some day 🙂
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